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Aragum Bay and Beyond - 2011
Story and Photos provided by Stylemaster. Thanks to Sarah for the Typing
It was 20 years ago when I first heard of Aragum Bay in SriLanka. I only had one photo to go by but it looked like an OK wave that broke very close to a sandy shore. I've since found out that it is a classic point break that does have a sandy shore, but just under the water's edge is smooth granite, so shifting sand is not an issue. When it's firing many waves break the entire way around the point, about 300 meters. As the wave wraps around there is a running rip that gets stronger towards the end of the wave. Therefore, paddling back around is not really an option, you simply come in and run 300m back and paddle out again!.
It's a great wave, fast with a good wall, but not
known for tubes, although they can happen. The break is very
consistent during the season, I had it between 2-5 feet. I recall
on one of the bigger days watching someone on a bigger set and reckon
the take-off had an 8 foot face. I surfed it onshore many times
and it was still a lot of fun as it cleaned up nicely on the inside.
Those sessions were a lot less crowded. When it is on it's crowded
and very competitive, like any overseas surf destination.
Main Point at Aragum Bay is the premier and most
popular spot in Sri Lanka. However, there are many other spots
around. These other spots only require a tuk-tuk for transport, a
bit of time and a small amount of money. Most of the other waves
are point breaks. I surfed Whisky Point, Pottuvil Point, The
Peanut Farm and Okanda. Pottuvil Point was easily the best wave
after the Main Point with rides 200-250m and again no paddling, just
running back up the beach to paddle out again.
Some mornings Pottuvil Point did get crowded, you just cope and find a spot.
Whisky Point was pretty desolate, with warm water, hot sand and not much
else around except for one amazing cafe called SABaBa Surf Cafe.
This cafe overlooked the point, there weren't any tables or chairs, just
lounging mats and cushions and serving 10/10 breakfasts with real
coffee!
I surfed for 10 days in a row in the A-Bay area then it was time to move slowly along the south coast back to Colombo. We stayed at two places that had small fun waves, but by the that time I had a cracking leg infection that kept me out of the water. I gave my board away in Unawatuna to one very happy 19 year old Sri Lankan, who displayed great affinity with the water.
When I started travelling through India, the
first week or so was along the south west coast, which is supposed to
have better surf. I saw some good 4 foot plus solid swell hitting
the coast, but for the life of me, I could not find one spot that broke
consistently. A few waves broke randomly with some form (and I
managed to get a few shots, which made it look better than it was).
I really wasn't too fussed, I didn't have a board, the leg was not yet
ready for kneeboarding, the water wasn't too clean and I was totally
preoccupied with soaking up every other aspect of India. I'm sure
India would have surf but the effort to find a spot that would deliver
the goods would be huge. After 2 months in southern India it was
no problem putting surfing on the back burner whilst bathing in the
brilliance of what they call 'Incredible India'.